Some places you visit. Others—you feel.
Why Appenzell, Switzerland was a Family Favorite
Some places you visit. Others—you feel.
Why Appenzell, Switzerland was a Family Favorite
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Why Appenzell, Switzerland was a Family Favorite
Brian Schwan
7/13/2025
Appenzell hit us differently.
We’d been in motion for nearly two weeks: zipping from Milan heat to Swiss mountaintops, through French villages, German wine towns, and unexpected festivals. It had all been incredible—but also a lot. Then, on a sunny Sunday morning, we woke up to crisp mountain air, a slower rhythm, and a day that unfolded with so much heart and beauty, we almost didn’t want to write about it. We just wanted to stay in it.
But here we are. Because this is the kind of travel story that reminds you why you pack the bags, book the flights, and chase those moments in the first place.
We spent the morning with family, taking the gondola up to Ebenalp, where we hiked to the famous Aescher Gasthaus—a cliffside restaurant tucked impossibly into the rock face. After beers, ice cream, and lots of photos, we kept hiking—pushing higher toward Mt. Schäfler, where the trails narrowed and the views opened up in a way that made all of us pause.
Back in Appenzell, the kids played soccer with local kids—the universal language of travel—while we relaxed and chatted with neighbors. It felt lived-in. It felt like a place we could stay. It felt like ours.
Ebenalp: The Lift That Took Us Somewhere Deeper
Ebenalp: The Lift That Took Us Somewhere Deeper
The gondola ride up to Ebenalp felt like crossing into a postcard—and for our son who’s afraid of heights, it also felt like a personal victory. He braved it (again) with quiet courage, and we were so proud. The fog from Mt. Titlis a few days earlier had cleared, and here the views rolled out in layers of green and blue.
At the top, we hiked a short trail past caves and wildflowers, winding toward one of Switzerland’s most iconic (and Instagrammed) spots…
The Aescher Gasthaus: Yes, It’s Real. Yes, It’s Worth It.
The Aescher Gasthaus: Yes, It’s Real. Yes, It’s Worth It.
Tucked under a sheer rock wall with valley views for miles, the Aescher cliff house doesn’t look like it should exist—but there it is, with cold beers, hearty meals, and photo ops at every angle.
We stopped for lunch and soaked in the magic. The kids got brownies. We ordered drinks. And for a moment, no one rushed. Everyone just was. These are the kinds of places that make travel feel mythic.
The Push to Mt. Schäfler: Short but Epic
The Push to Mt. Schäfler: Short but Epic
Most people stop at Aescher. We didn’t. We kept climbing, and the trail to Mt. Schäfler—while short—was steep, narrow, and absolutely unforgettable.
The switchbacks. The cowbells in the distance. The sheer drops. The sense that every step earned us another layer of wonder.
At the top, we sat—kids with ice cream, adults with alpine beers—and took it all in. This wasn’t just a great view. It was the culmination of everything we came here to feel.
Soccer and Serendipity: Feeling Like Locals
Soccer and Serendipity: Feeling Like Locals
Back in town, the kids played pick-up soccer with local kids on a grassy field near our guesthouse. No common language needed—just a ball, a goal, and mutual understanding. It was joyful, simple, and pure.
Meanwhile, we met neighbors who were also travelers, swapping stories over beer and watching the sun stretch long over the rooftops.
This wasn’t tourist-mode anymore. This was travel sinking into life.
Practical Tips
Practical Tips
Get to Ebenalp early. Parking is limited, and lines for the gondola can grow fast on nice days.
Wear real shoes. The hike to Mt. Schäfler isn’t long, but it’s rocky and steep in places.
Bring layers. Even in July, it’s chilly at the top and warm at the bottom.
Push a little farther. Most people stop at Aescher. The trail to Schäfler is what makes it unforgettable.
Let your kids play. Watching them join a pickup game abroad is as rewarding as any museum.
Stay in town, walk to everything. The charm of Appenzell is best felt when you don’t need to go anywhere else.
This was the day we stopped traveling through Appenzell—and started feeling part of it. The day we stopped chasing destinations and started settling into a place that felt like it had been waiting for us all along. We came for the mountains, the hikes, the iconic views. We stayed for the people, the pace, and the moments that had nothing to do with a bucket list.
This was the day that reminded us: you don’t just find magic in the big sights. You find it in the rhythm.
Want to keep following the journey?
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