Beyond the Brochure: The Real Lake Como
Cooling Down in the Hidden Gem of Ossuccio, Italy
Beyond the Brochure: The Real Lake Como
Cooling Down in the Hidden Gem of Ossuccio, Italy
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Cooling Down in the Hidden Gem of Ossuccio, Italy
Brian Schwan
7/3/2025
We left Milan sweaty, but over our jet lag, and excited for some fresh air and open space. The plan? Rent a car, head north, and ease into the next phase of the trip—somewhere between lake views and pasta nights. But if Milan was all about energy and adjustment, Ossuccio—a small lakeside town tucked into the mountains above Lake Como—was where we finally exhaled.
What we found wasn’t flashy or famous. We weren’t staying in a luxury villa or spotting celebrities on boats. Instead, we hiked up and down steep stone paths, swam in cold water that made us feel alive again, and accidentally crashed a local food and music festival that turned out to be one of our favorite nights of the trip.
This wasn’t the postcard version of Lake Como. It was better.
When we planned the Como portion of our trip, we knew we didn’t want to stay in the city of Como itself. Too busy. Too far from the kind of quiet we were craving. So we landed on Ossuccio, a small town on the lake’s western edge, known for its walkability, charm, and mountain views—and we’re so glad we did.
The house we rented was perched way up a winding hill. And when I say “hill,” I mean the kind that earns you pizza. Every trip to the store, the lake, or the local restaurant was a full-body workout. But the views? Worth every step.
Cold Swims and Clear Water
Cold Swims and Clear Water
On our first day, still sticky from Milan’s heat and road-weary from the drive, we made a beeline to the lake. There's a little beach area in Ossuccio that’s quiet, uncrowded, and just perfect for families. The water was colder than we expected—icy at first—but exactly what we needed.
The kids jumped in with zero hesitation, while we took a slower, more dramatic entrance. We floated, we laughed, we didn’t look at our watches. Just being in the water, surrounded by mountains and old stone buildings, felt like a reset button for all of us.
Bellagio and Varenna ... Because You Have To
Bellagio and Varenna ... Because You Have To
We did take one day to do the “Como classics” and hop the ferry to Bellagio and Varenna. They were beautiful, as expected—narrow alleys, cascading flowers, lakeside cafés—but also incredibly crowded. After the peaceful rhythm of Ossuccio, it was a bit jarring to be elbow-to-elbow with other tourists again.
We made the most of it: strolled, snacked, took some photos, and got back on the ferry. It was a fun outing, but we all agreed—Ossuccio was more our speed.
Feeling Like a Local
Feeling Like a Local
One night, we noticed signs going up around the park and a big tent. Curiosity won out (as it always should on a trip), and we wandered up that evening to find ourselves in the middle of a local food and music festival.
Hardly anyone spoke English, which made ordering dinner an adventure in itself. We took turns Googling menu items, translating signs, and making wild guesses based on smells and line length. The kids, understandably, went with pizza from the small restaurant we’d grown to love. The adults? We dove into traditional dishes we couldn’t pronounce but devoured all the same.
There was live music from local bands and families spread out on picnic tables and blankets. It wasn’t touristy. It wasn’t polished. It felt like we’d been invited into someone’s community. And even though we didn’t fully understand the language, the rhythm of the evening needed no translation.
Kayaking the Hidden Side of the Lake
Kayaking the Hidden Side of the Lake
On our last full day in Ossuccio, we booked something we’d been looking forward to for months: a guided kayak tour along the lake. It ended up being even better than we expected—not just a scenic paddle, but a few hours of real adventure that challenged us, thrilled the kids, and gave us a totally different view of Lake Como.
Our guide was friendly, knowledgeable, and totally dialed into the kids’ energy. He shared local stories, pointed out ancient villas and movie filming spots we never would’ve found on our own, and—most importantly—he didn’t go easy on us. The kids had to work. There was no “float and coast” here. He pushed them to paddle harder, navigate choppier spots, and even led some friendly kayak races that had them beaming with pride.
Out on the water, surrounded by towering mountains and deep blue water, it felt like we were immersed—not just in the landscape, but in the rhythm of this place. The kind of memory that lingers long after the trip ends.
Practical Tips
Practical Tips
Skip the more popular cities like Como and Bellagio if you’re not into crowds. Smaller towns like Ossuccio offer all the charm with less chaos.
Prepare for steep walks. Wear comfortable shoes and pack light—you’ll be grateful.
Keep your schedule open. Some of the best experiences (like local festivals) can’t be planned in advance.
Have a translation app ready. Super helpful for menus and signs when English isn’t widely spoken.
Embrace the slow. You don’t have to see everything. Sometimes sitting at a quiet park with a beer is the real bucket-list item.
Ossuccio wasn’t flashy, and it didn’t come with a list of must-see attractions—but it gave us space to explore slowly, connect deeply, and stumble into some of the most memorable parts of our trip. We swam. We hiked. We stumbled into a festival we didn’t know existed. And at the end of every day, we climbed that hill again—legs sore, bellies full, hearts happier.
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