Mountains, Mistakes, and the Scenic Route
The Gotthard Pass is Worth the Hype
The Gotthard Pass is Worth the Hype
Brian Schwan
7/6/2025
Every family trip needs one classic travel blunder. The kind you laugh about later—even if, in the moment, you’re gripping the steering wheel a little tighter and wondering if the GPS has a vendetta. For us, that day was the day we left Italy for Switzerland and accidentally (but kind of on purpose?) drove through the St. Gotthard Tunnel twice before finally crossing the St. Gotthard Pass—a winding, spectacular route that ended up being one of the most unforgettable drives of our entire journey.
It was a day of dramatic mountains, Alpine air, and new scenery around every curve. But it was also about slowing down, being flexible, and embracing detours—literal and otherwise.
Leaving Ossuccio was bittersweet—we’d found our groove there—but Switzerland was calling. We packed up early, said goodbye to our hilltop view, and hit the road toward Engelberg, a small alpine town nestled in the heart of central Switzerland.
The most efficient route? Through the St. Gotthard Tunnel, one of the longest tunnels in Europe. The most scenic route? Over the St. Gotthard Pass, a historic high-mountain road with hairpin turns and postcard-worthy views.
We meant to do the scenic route. We missed the turn. Ended up in the tunnel. Realized the mistake. Drove back through the tunnel again just to do the pass.
Totally worth it.
Despite best intentions, we missed the turnoff for the pass and found ourselves swallowed by the 10-mile Gotthard Tunnel. It’s long. It’s dark. And once you’re in, there’s no turning around. We popped out the other side, laughing at the GPS and kicking ourselves for not paying closer attention.
But here’s where things took a turn (literally). We decided—why not?—to drive back through the tunnel, re-navigate, and take the mountain pass after all. Maybe not the most efficient use of time or gas, but in the spirit of adventure, it felt absolutely right.
Once we found the road to the St. Gotthard Pass, everything changed. Within minutes, we were climbing through switchbacks, past alpine streams, with sweeping views that looked like they belonged in a fantasy novel. There were moments we pulled over just to breathe it in.
The kids were glued to the windows—half in awe, half counting hairpin turns like it was a game. And we got to roll down the windows, smell the cool mountain air, and feel like we were doing something special—something earned.
It wasn’t part of the original plan, but it became one of those pure travel moments where everything aligns: the scenery, the silence, the sense of discovery.
We rolled into Engelberg later than expected but feeling like we’d just been through something that mattered. The town was quiet and surrounded by towering peaks, with (what promised to be) bright green hillsides that felt pulled straight from Heidi. It was calm. It was cool. It was exactly what we needed. But it was too cloudy to see any of it!
So, we checked into our family-run guesthouse, Gasthaus Schwand, tucked just outside of town. It had a cozy alpine charm and incredible mountain views from the windows—plus enough room to spread out and relax.
Dinner that night? Our twist on “Sunday Funday” back home, rebranded as Monday Funday: local snacks, easy favorites, and a deck of cards spread out across the table. We didn’t need a restaurant. We had everything we needed—right there.
Double-check directions for scenic routes. Some GPS systems default to tunnels or highways—make sure you pick the mountain option before it’s too late.
Leave wiggle room in your itinerary. The extra drive time was absolutely worth it.
Take breaks on the pass. There are several safe pull-off spots. Bring snacks, stretch your legs, and take it all in.
Pack for layering. The weather changed fast as we climbed—warm at the base, chilly up top.
Don’t skip small towns, like Engelberg. It’s a hidden gem—beautiful, walkable, and a great base for mountain adventures like Mt. Titlis.
What started as a wrong turn turned into one of our favorite drives of the trip. That’s how travel works, right? Sometimes the best parts aren’t the ones you planned—they’re the ones you accidentally circle back for, tunnel through twice, and climb your way into.
This day reminded us that the road matters just as much as the destination. And when the road looks like this? You’ll be grateful you didn’t rush.
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